Reader recommendations on what to see in Southwest Virginia

Texas likes to proclaim “Don’t mess with Texas.”

Don’t mess with Southwest Virginia, either.

I’m not sure what happens if you mess with Texas — I’ve never tried — but a writer for Axios Richmond tried to mess with Southwest Virginia by making a dismissive reference to “whatever the hell is west of Roanoke.” That led to me writing a column to defend the western part of the state, which in turn led to a reader in Arlington saying he’d never been to this part of the state, so I offered to give him some travel advice — yours.

And, boy, did readers come through. We got so much advice that I’ve had to break it into two parts. Yesterday, we looked at reader advice on what to visit on the way to “whatever the hell is west of Roanoke.” Today we finally get to west of Roanoke.

Molly O’Dell of Buchanan condensed an entire region’s worth of advice into a single paragraph: “Drive the Crooked Road, catch a Carter Fold performance, eat at the Hickory, stay at the Martha Washington, see a play at the Barter (‘Ring of Fire’ is fab), walk or bike the Creeper outside Damascus along the Whitetop Laurel, visit ’Round the Mountain for some gifts and Appalachian art, eat at Pakalachian food truck, hike the Channels and also Grayson Highlands park to see wild ponies, eat at the Draper Mercantile and walk the New River Trail, see Burke’s Garden. The Elk tour and Breaks interstate park are wonderful and listen to 100.2 while down there. Shop at Food City — the region’s best grocery chain.”

Melissa Kile of Roanoke did the same: “Floyd County — music, art, scenery, food; Abingdon — the Barter, Martha Washington Inn, food, rooftop bar, Tumbling Creek Cider, Abingdon Winery; Damascus  — the Virginia Creeper Trail; Bristol — shows at the Paramount, Sessions Hotel, Birthplace of Country Music Museum.”

Tamra Sorrels Igo of Wise offered this comment for those in the rest of the state: “It always befuddles me when Roanoke, Blacksburg, and others refer to themselves as ‘Southwest Virginia.’ I always want to snap at someone, look at a map! Southwest of Roanoke lies Lee, Wise, Scott, Dickenson, Buchanan, and Washington counties, just to mention a few. WE are Southwest Virginia. Roanoke is practically in the middle of the state. We have to drive three hours and over 180 miles northeast to get to Roanoke!”

She then offered a list of 27 sites to see: “High Knob Recreation Area, Natural Tunnel State Park, Southwest Virginia Museum, John Fox, Jr., Museum, Tale of the Lonesome Pine Outdoor Drama, Breaks Interstate Park, Hungry Mother State Park, Grayson Highlands State Park, Back of the Dragon driving tour, Ralph Stanley Museum, Burkes Garden, Harry Meador Coal Museum, Carter Fold, Bush Mill, Wilderness Road Blockhouse, Kilgore Fort House, Creation Kingdom Zoo, Little Stony Falls, The Country Cabin, Mountain Rose Vineyards. Birch Knob Tower, Clinch River State Park, The Devil’s Bathtub, Flag Rock Recreation Are, Guest River Gorge, John Flannagan Dam & Reservoir, Pinnacle Natural Area. My goodness, I could go on and on, and the places to eat! You wouldn’t believe it! And then there’s whitewater rafting, riding trails (both ATV and horses), hiking trails galore, tubing, fishing, camping, and a multitude of music and arts and crafts festivals, fairs, farmers’ markets… Southwest Virginia – the real one, not the wannabes – is full of things to see and do and places to go. Yes, we’re here, yes, we’re ignored by everyone from Roanoke to Richmond – but, golly, what they’re missing!”

Did I mention that some people feel passionate about Southwest Virginia?

For those who want more detail, buckle up: here’s what our readers said our Arlington visitor should see.

Floyd County

Multiple readers waxed poetic about Floyd County. Rebecca Daly is a recent arrival to Floyd and loves the place.

“The glory of the Blue Ridge Parkway south of Roanoke is a sight to behold,” she writes. “Floyd is a unique village that is known for its music and thriving downtown. We have several ‘green’ businesses here and an unrivaled community spirit. Our hiking trails are gorgeous, our Hotel Floyd a wonderful place to stay, our restaurants delightful and our people are friendly. We have been listed before as one of the ten best towns in the country.”

Lynn Chipkin of Stuart recommends Floyd on a summer Friday night when the music at the Floyd Country Store is going strong. “Great music, fun time!” She specifically touted “Hotel Floyd, Outer Space for dinner, Cafe Floyd for breakfast.” Outer Space is a restaurant, by the way. Floyd is way-out, but not quite that way out.

Peter Katt of Fincastle encourages visitors to go beyond the town of Floyd to take in the view over Rock Castle Gorge on the Blue Ridge Parkway south of Floyd. “The hike down the gorge is beautiful as well, if not somewhat arduous,” he says.

Charlie Grymes of Manassas — or, as he puts it, “way the hell north of Roanoke” — says visitors should “climb to the top of Buffalo Mountain Natural Area Preserve for a 345 degree view from the Blue Ridge. In addition to the spectacular vistas from 3,971 feet high, you may see F-15’s practicing low-level flights. (You will be looking down to see jets hugging the Floyd County terrain.) There are only 10 parking spots at the head of the 1-mile trail near Meadows of Dan, so try visiting on a weekday.” 

The Crooked Road

The Crooked Road Music Heritage Trail is as much a state of mind as a physical series of music venues that specialize in the traditional music of the mountains. David Reemsnyder II of Blacksburg was among those who mentioned the trail, with a specific suggestion to check out the Blue Ridge Music Center near Galax on the Blue Ridge Parkway. But there are venues all along the way, from Rocky Mount to Dickenson County. The Carter Family Fold in Scott County drew multiple mentions.

The New River Valley

William Mahone of Hot Springs says things don’t get much better than “Floating and fishing from Pembroke to Ripplemead on the New River. A four-mile drive with a half day float.”

Joy Loving of Grottoes likes Mountain Lake in Giles County. Kevin Holt of Roanoke says don’t miss the Cascades waterfall in Giles County. Alice Duehl of Fincastle says visitors should stay at the Inn at Foster Falls and “ride the bike trail along the New River.”

Multiple readers name-checked New River Trail State Park. “Explore the Hoover Mountain Bike Complex and see where pigments were mined for Crayola crayons to get their color,” says Charlie Grymes of Manassas. “The former mining site is now part of New River Trail State Park, near Allisonia. Enjoy a gentle three-mile round trip hike, or the mountain biking trails with five different trail loops. Parking is easy ($7 fee). There are benches where you can sit and have lunch and admire the distinctive view.”

Wytheville

Bill Smith of the Bolling Wilson Hotel wants visitors to stop in Wytheville We published a story last year on all the museums in Wytheville.

Grayson Highlands State Park

“Drive through the park to Massie Gap and walk up the trail to the top where the Appalachian Trail intersects the path,” says Kathy Cole of Independence. “Here you will probably see the ‘wild’ ponies who live there (tamed by hikers giving them apples and granola bars) and amazing views of the Blue Ridge. If [our Arlington visitor] is driving here in late spring, he should see masses of rhododendron in bloom. And don’t miss the New River!”

Damascus

This town in Washington County came in for a lot of praise. “Bike the Creeper Trail from Damascus to White Top Station past waterfalls and wildlife,” advises Mary Haviland of Abingdon.

“In Damascus, my favorite sport is downhill bike riding where they’ll rent you a bike/helmet, drive you near the top of White Top Mountain and you can coast for two hours on a beautiful rails-to-trails path back to town,” says William Mahone of Hot Springs. “Halfway down, you may have to pedal 40 feet to a restaurant at the train depot. If you’re better than me you can bike up and ride down.”

Abingdon (and the Virginia Creeper Trail)

Another popular recommendation, for multiple reasons — biking, eating and the Barter Theatre.

“Come on down to Abingdon and bike the Creeper Trail,” says Rachel Fogg of Abingdon. “Either take a shuttle to the top and enjoy the bike ride down back into Abingdon or be brave and bike uphill to the top. Or take the Creeper Trail in sections and stop off at Sweetbay Brewery in Abingdon or the Abingdon Winery — both are easily accessible from the Creeper Trail.

“I have lived in bigger cities most of my life but love it here in Abingdon because the downtown is walkable, the coffee shops are delicious (check out Girl and the Raven or Rendezvous Cafe), and the bar scene is fun (I’m a millennial, all of these things are important to me). Grab a cocktail at Summers rooftop bar in Abingdon, check out the view of the courthouse and rolling hills, and then walk across the street to eat dinner at either Foresta or the Tavern. If you want to get out of town, drive over to Grayson Highlands State Park and hike up to see the ponies. You’ll be back in Abingdon by dinnertime.”

Judi Lenviel of Abingdon says much the same: “Abingdon is a beautiful, quaint town with a host of activities that should attract tourists. The Barter Theatre is a Virginia treasure. The Virginia Creeper trailhead is right in town. Nearby are Whitetop Mountain, the Channels, and the Appalachian Trail. The last week of July is when Abingdon hosts the Virginia Highlands Festival, a decades-old arts, crafts, and antiques showcase.”

One final piece of Abingdon advice: “Abingdon is a charming town with many wonderful restaurants,” says Sherry Crumley of Buchanan. “To stay at the Martha Washington Inn is a treat.”

Bristol

We also had multiple recommendations for Bristol. “Grab a mini-waffle at Whimsicals Cafe in downtown Bristol,” Rachel Fogg of Abingdon advised.

Torrece Gregoire, chef at the Union 41 restaurant, suggested a stay at the Sessions Hotel, named after the famous series of recording sessions in Bristol in 1927 that are considered “the big bang” of country music. And that brings us this: “The Birthplace of Country Music Museum in Bristol is a must see!” says Sherry Crumley of Buchanan. “The museum is an affiliate of the Smithsonian and first class.”

While our Arlington visitor plans a trip in May, William Mahone of Hot Springs suggested he come back in the winter. “At Christmas they used to open the Bristol Motor Speedway and the drag strip in Thunder Valley with lights and decorations. As you enter the raceway some big guys have a sheet of plywood that says ‘Don’t even think about driving over 20 mph.’”

Burkes Garden

Burkes Garden in Tazewell County is one of the most unusual — and beautiful — parts of Virginia. It’s an isolated valley that looks like an old asteroid impact but is actually the remains of an ancient sea. The Vanderbilt family once tried to buy Burkes Garden but locals wouldn’t sell; that’s why the Biltmore estate is in Asheville, North Carolina and not Virginia. Today, Burkes Garden is home to many Amish families.

A lot of people mentioned Burkes Garden as a must-see, from former state secretary of commerce and trade Michael Schewel of Richmond to Joy Loving of Grottoes. Babette Newman of nearby Richlands offered this itinerary: “Drive Route 19 south from Bluefield. If you have lots of time, drive through Burkes Garden. If not, continue past Tazewell, to the Crab Orchard Museum. Once finished there drive on to Cuz’s for a great meal and stay over in one of their cabins. (Be sure to check first to see if they’re open, their schedule varies by season.) Drive on to Claypool Hill where Route 460 and Route 19 diverge. For me this section is the prettiest of this part of the drive. Here you will need to decide if you continue on 19 to Lebanon and Abingdon, or if you turn on 460 to Richlands, Grundy, and on west. Please continue on 460. Driving through our mountains and coal country may not be the prettiest drive, but it’s essential if you really want to know what is west of Roanoke. And this is the way to the Breaks Interstate Park, a must see. …. And better left to someone whom is more familiar with the area to describe.” 

So we will:

Breaks Interstate Park (and the elk herd)

The Breaks Interstate Park is on the state line between Virginia and Kentucky where the Russell Fork River cuts through the mountains. “It is beautiful! A mini Grand Canyon!” That’s from Bob Deeds of Williamsburg. Frank Kilgore of St. Paul calls it “a hidden jewel.” It’s one of the deepest gorges east of the Mississippi. “The last few miles to get there truly are winding but hey, it’s a gorge so slowing down a bit is part of the ride,” Kilgore says. While there, you can also check out Virginia’s small but growing elk herd.

The Heart of Appalachia

Allen McKenna of Bristol talks up the outdoor drama “Trail of the Lonesome Pine” in Big Stone Gap and the Natural Tunnel State Park in Scott County. Bob Deeds in Williamsburg remembers the view from the High Knob observation tower in Wise County.

Jeffrey Hess of the Heart of Appalachia tourism group in St. Paul would have been remiss if he didn’t do his promotional job: “We are an outdoor mecca! … We have five state parks, one national park, 1,500 miles of ATV/UTV trails, hundreds of miles of public hiking trails … three navigable rivers, one being the Clinch, which is the most pristine river in North America (according to state biologist), three natural preserves, with the greatest swimming hole in Virginia at the Pinnacle Preserve in Russell County. Did I mention the hike and swimming at Devils Bathtub, or sunset at High Knob Tower, in Norton, or Birch Knob Tower in Clintwood? … Guest River Gorge! Multiple waterfalls, many accessible for all ages. Biking the Guest River Gorge trail, a rails to trail experience. You can pause and take a dip in the Guest River to cool off.”

Finally, he had some good advice that would apply to many places: “Hub and Spoke” when visiting. Stay in one of our boutique hotels, campgrounds, or Airbnbs. Do something different each day, with music on the nights, and food and beverage to be found everywhere. No traffic, no wait times, max vacay time!”

So there. That’s what our readers say is “whatever the hell is west of Roanoke.” And we haven’t even mentioned baseball at historic Calfee Park in Pulaski, or shows at the Millwald Theatre in Wytheville or the Lincoln Theatre in Marion, or …